I’m sure you’ve run into the nay-saying “quilt police” who say that machine binding your quilts is “wrong” or “cheating”. This perception is from the idea that you shouldn’t be able to see your stitching on the binding. it “should” be invisible. Well I’m here to tell you that’s a bunch of hogwash!
I simply do not have the time or patience to sit and hand stitch. Besides that- I don’t enjoy hand stitching! If you do- more power to you! But sometimes we just need to get a project done quick without compromising on quality! So here are my 6 tips on making machine binding look in less than 20 minutes.
PROFESSIONAL MACHINE BINDING
1. Thread color
When you hand bind with a chunkier thread, you are looking for it to stand out and add an element of design. But when you are machine binding, you want it to blend in because it is not as decorative. The most important tip I can give you to help make your machine binding look professional is to use a matching thread color. This elevates the look of your binding by 1000%. So, if your binding is yellow- use a yellow thread. Is your binding black? Use a black thread! This is my #1 Tip!
2. Machine binding on the back first
Most people will say to start by attaching the binding to the front first. I recommend that when you start your machine binding, you start by attaching the binding to the back. This is because when you are stitching the second side down, it leaves a stitch line on the opposite side. I don’t want that to be on the front of my quilt.
3. Seam allowance
Early on in my quilting journey I put a couple of quilts into our local county fair. When I got them back they came with judges notes that said my binding was too loose, and needed to be pulled tighter. I don’t know that was an important aspect of binding. But I started doing just that and I really love how professional it looks.
With that being said, I usually cut my binding at 2.5″ and press in half along the length of the strips. Then, I stitch all the way around on the back first at a little more than 1/4″ seam allowance (about 3/8″), with raw edges together. This will help keep the stitch line on the back closer to the binding (which you’ll see after you stitch down the front side).
4. Corners matter
Corners can be tricky! I love when people use the chunky thread and make little “X” marks over the corner fold. I think it’s so cute! However, with machine binding, you want to make sure that your corners are secure without running a stitch up the corner fold (which looks tacky).
So, when I am stitching the binding to the back and I come to a corner, I do not cut my thread or stitch off the edge. Instead, I stop stitching 3/8″ away from the next edge and lift my sewing machine foot. Then, I carefully (with the needle still down) turn my quilt 90 degrees so that the next edge is lined up and ready to sew down. While carefully holding the quilt in place, I lift the needle and fold back the binding so that the fold is aligned with the last edge. Then I put the foot back down and stitch back and forth a couple of times before continuing down the next side.
The reason I do this is to make sure that my thread stays as one continuous thread. It helps to stabilize the corners so that when I pull it around to the other side, everything stays put.
5. Top Stitch
This is the part that needs some special attention to detail. You are going to pull your binding over to the front of your quilt and top stitch all the way around. I try to keep my stitching as close to that folded edge of the binding as possible. Going a little slower helps you keep your line straight and steady. And, of course, make sure that your binding is pulled over your stitch line from the back.
When you come to a corner you’ll stop a few inches from the corner and fold the binding up towards the side you are on and hold it in place. The corner fold should be perfectly mitered. Sew back and forth ONE stitch a few times over the fold. Then, with your needle down, rotate your quilt and continue on down the next side.
6. Size matters
I always cut my binding at 2.5″ wide and then press the whole thing in half lengthwise. This has worked well for me over the years, especially if I sew little more than 1/4″ seam when I first attach the binding to the back. Bessie Pearl sells gorgeous pre-made bindings to help make this process even easier!
I know some people cut their binding at 2.25″ and the same process works well but you would need to sew it on at 1/4″ and not a little larger.
I believe that there is no reason you can’t have quick AND beautiful binding on your quilts. I hope these 6 tips on making professional looking machine binding will help you feel successful in machine binding. And don’t worry what the nay-sayers are saying! There is no wrong way! Only alternatives.
